Concerns · Skin of colour

Dry Skin

Restoring the barrier, not just adding moisture

Understanding your skin

Dry skin in skin of colour

Dry skin, also known as xerosis, is very common in people with skin of colour and is often misunderstood. While dry skin affects all skin tones, research shows that there are important biological differences in how skin of colour holds onto moisture, repairs its barrier, and responds to irritation.

These differences can make dry skin feel more persistent, uncomfortable, or difficult to manage, even when moisturisers are used regularly.

The science

Your skin barrier

The outermost layer of the skin, called the skin barrier, plays a crucial role in keeping moisture in and protecting the skin from irritants and infection.

In skin of colour, studies show that this barrier can allow water to escape more easily. At the same time, levels of key skin lipids such as ceramides may be lower. Together, this means the skin can lose hydration more quickly and struggle to retain moisture, even when it appears normal on the surface.

Ceramides
Skin lipids that act like the "glue" holding skin cells together, sealing moisture in.
Water loss
Known medically as transepidermal water loss: water escaping through the skin barrier.
MOISTURE HELD IN Ceramides intact MOISTURE ESCAPES Fewer ceramides
Think of skin cells as bricks and ceramides as the mortar between them. With less mortar, water slips through the gaps.

Not one skin type

Even within skin of colour, there are differences

Dry skin affects all ethnicities, but research shows that the way skin holds water, repairs its barrier, and reacts to irritation can vary between different skin types. This helps explain why dry skin may feel more persistent, or respond differently to products, even when routines look similar.

Black & Afro-Caribbean skin

Loses moisture easily

Afro-Caribbean skin, in particular, has fewer ceramides. Ceramides keep moisture locked in the skin, so without as many of them, skin loses moisture easily. This means dry skin can feel tight, itchy or uncomfortable even when flaking is minimal, and may appear as ashiness or dullness rather than redness.

That's why Afro-Caribbean skin tends to get dry, ashy, irritated and sensitive, particularly in a cold, dry place like the UK.

Asian skin

Hydrated, but reactive

Asian skin often has higher baseline water content and higher ceramide levels, but it can be more sensitive and reactive when the skin barrier is disrupted. This means dryness may be accompanied by stinging, irritation, or sensitivity to certain products.

Asian skin may react more strongly to harsh cleansers or active ingredients, making gentle barrier support especially important.

These are general patterns, not rules. Individual skin type, lifestyle, climate, age and medical conditions matter far more than ethnicity alone.

A simple tip

Moisturise while your skin is still damp

Apply your moisturiser right after showering, whilst the skin is still damp, to lock in moisture before it escapes.

Why our approach is different

Treating dry skin is not simply about using a thicker or stronger moisturiser.

The goal is to restore and support the skin barrier, not just add moisture temporarily. At Dr Mélanin, we assess dry skin based on how your skin is functioning, not just how it looks, to recommend skincare that supports long-term barrier health.

We consider your
  • Skin type
  • Skin tone
  • Sensitivity
  • Lifestyle
  • Environment

What makes it worse

What causes dry skin?

Skin of colour can respond differently to soaps, detergents, fragrances and skincare ingredients. Some products may disrupt the skin barrier further, worsening dryness and irritation rather than improving it.

i.

In your routine

  • Frequent washing and repeated bathing
  • Hot showers, which increase water loss
  • Harsh cleansers, soaps and detergents
  • Fragranced products that strip natural protective oils
ii.

In your environment

  • Cold weather, especially through UK winters
  • Low humidity in the air around you
  • Air conditioning, which dries the air further

Over time, this increased water loss can lead to roughness, fine cracking, itching and discomfort.

Your treatment

Restoring the barrier

Treatment plans are tailored to your skin's needs, building from a strong foundation of skincare.

i.

The foundation, always

A good skincare routine

Essential for restoring and protecting the skin barrier. This includes gentle cleansing and regular use of moisturisers chosen for your skin type and sensitivity.

ii.

When more support is needed

Injectable treatments

For some clients with ongoing dryness or dullness despite good skincare, injectable treatments may be used as additional support.

Injectable treatments are used to complement, not replace, good skincare.

Signature Programmes

Programmes that support dry skin

Where dry skin is part of a wider picture, one of our structured programmes may bring your treatments together into a single, considered plan.

Your questions

Frequently asked questions

01Does having skin of colour mean I need "special" moisturisers?

Not necessarily. Skin of colour does not require specialist products simply because of skin tone. Moisturisers should be chosen based on how your skin behaves, including dryness severity, sensitivity, environment, and barrier health. However, understanding common patterns in skin of colour helps guide smarter product selection and avoid irritation.

02Does this mean everyone from the same ethnicity has the same skin needs?

No. These are general patterns, not rules. Individual skin type, lifestyle, climate, age, and medical conditions matter far more than ethnicity alone. Two people of the same ethnic background can have very different skin needs. This is why assessment should always be personalised rather than assumption-based.

03Can dry skin become more serious?

In more severe cases, dry skin can crack, sting, or become inflamed, increasing the risk of secondary infection if the skin barrier is significantly compromised. Because inflammation can be harder to see in darker skin tones, it is worth seeking advice if your skin feels persistently uncomfortable, even if it does not look red.

Can't find your answer? Please reach out to us.

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Disclaimer

Your results, side effects, treatment plans, downtime and recovery may vary, as all our clients are unique. The information provided on this page is based on the average client experience. If you would like more detail about how your experience may differ, please book an in-person consultation.

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