Great skin is a journey, not a
destination
Dr Eckstein
Dry Skin in Skin of Colour
The outermost layer of the skin, called the skin barrier, plays a crucial role in keeping moisture in and protecting the skin from irritants and infection. In skin of colour, studies show that this barrier can allow water to escape more easily (a process known as transepidermal water loss). At the same time, levels of key skin lipids such as ceramides, which act like the “glue” holding skin cells together, may be lower. Together, this means the skin can lose hydration more quickly and struggle to retain moisture, even when it appears normal on the surface.
Dry skin (also known as xerosis), is very common in people with skin of colour and is often misunderstood. While dry skin affects all skin tones, research shows that there are important biological differences in how skin of colour holds onto moisture, repairs its barrier, and responds to irritation. These differences can make dry skin feel more persistent, uncomfortable, or difficult to manage, even when moisturisers are used regularly.
Treating dry skin in skin of colour is not simply about using a thicker or stronger moisturiser. The goal is to restore and support the skin barrier, not just add moisture temporarily. At Dr Mélanin, we assess dry skin based on how your skin is functioning, not just how it looks. We consider your skin type, skin tone, sensitivity, lifestyle, and environment to recommend skincare that supports long-term barrier health.
Frequently Asked Questions
Dry skin in skin of colour does not always look dry in the way people expect. Flaking and redness may be subtle or absent. Instead, dryness may present as tightness, dullness, ashiness, itching, stinging, or increased sensitivity. Because redness is less visible in darker skin tones, inflammation can be harder to recognise, which means dry skin may be underestimated or left untreated. In more severe cases, dry skin can crack, sting, or become inflamed, increasing the risk of secondary infection if the skin barrier is significantly compromised.
Skin of colour can respond differently to soaps, detergents, fragrances, and skincare ingredients. Some products may disrupt the skin barrier further, worsening dryness and irritation rather than improving it. Frequent washing, hot showers, harsh cleansers, and fragranced products can all strip the skin of its natural protective oils and increase moisture loss over time.
Environmental and lifestyle factors also play a significant role. Cold weather, low humidity, air conditioning, and repeated bathing all increase water loss from the skin. Over time, this can lead to roughness, fine cracking, itching, and discomfort.
Yes. Dry skin affects all ethnicities, but research shows that the way skin holds water, repairs its barrier, and reacts to irritation can vary between different skin types. These differences help explain why dry skin may feel more persistent or respond differently to products in some people, even when routines look similar.
Studies show that Black skin tends to lose water more easily through the skin barrier and may have lower levels of ceramides, which are important lipids that help seal moisture into the skin. This means dry skin can feel tight, itchy, or uncomfortable even when flaking is minimal. Dryness may also appear as ashiness or dullness rather than redness, which can make it less obvious but no less significant
Asian skin often has higher baseline water content and higher ceramide levels, but it can be more sensitive and reactive when the skin barrier is disrupted. This means dryness may be accompanied by stinging, irritation, or sensitivity to certain products. Asian skin may also react more strongly to harsh cleansers or active ingredients, making gentle barrier support especially important
Not necessarily. Skin of colour does not require specialist products simply because of skin tone. Moisturisers should be chosen based on how your skin behaves, including dryness severity, sensitivity, environment, and barrier health. However, understanding common patterns in skin of colour helps guide smarter product selection and avoid irritation
No. These are general patterns, not rules. Individual skin type, lifestyle, climate, age, and medical conditions matter far more than ethnicity alone. Two people of the same ethnic background can have very different skin needs. This is why assessment should always be personalised rather than assumption-based
Dry skin is treated by focusing first on a good skincare routine, which is essential for restoring and protecting the skin barrier. This includes gentle cleansing and regular use of moisturisers chosen for your skin type and sensitivity. For some clients with ongoing dryness or dullness despite good skincare, injectable treatments may be used as additional support. Profhilo, which contains hyaluronic acid, helps improve skin hydration and overall skin quality from within. Polynucleotides, which can also contain hyaluronic acid, can support skin repair and hydration over time. Treatment plans are tailored to your skin’s needs, and injectable treatments are used to complement, not replace, good skincare.