Melasma develops when melanocytes (pigment-producing cells) become overstimulated. Several factors contribute to this process. Hormonal changes are a major trigger: pregnancy, oral contraceptives, hormone replacement therapy and thyroid disorders can all influence melanin production. This is why melasma is sometimes referred to as the "mask of pregnancy".

Sun exposure plays a critical role. Ultraviolet light stimulates melanocytes directly and can quickly worsen pigmentation, even after successful treatment. Visible light and heat exposure may also contribute. Genetics can also predispose individuals to melasma, particularly those with darker skin tones.

Melanin-rich skin contains larger, more active melanocytes. While this provides natural protection against UV damage, it also makes the skin more reactive to hormonal and inflammatory triggers. As a result, melasma is more prevalent and often more persistent in darker skin tones.

Inappropriate treatments, especially aggressive lasers or deep peels, can worsen pigmentation if not carefully selected. At Dr Mélanin, we use tailored protocols designed specifically for skin of colour, focusing on controlled, gradual improvement rather than aggressive short-term approaches.

Melasma requires a structured, long-term management plan. There is no instant cure, but improvement is achievable with consistency and expert guidance.

Skincare and sun protection. Skincare forms the foundation of melasma management. Daily broad-spectrum SPF 50 is non-negotiable, as even brief UV exposure can reverse progress and trigger recurrence. Physical sun protection such as hats and avoiding peak sunlight hours further reduces flare-ups. Skincare may also include retinoids to increase cell turnover and ingredients that reduce melanin production. Antioxidants help protect against environmental triggers, while barrier-supporting products reduce inflammation risk. Improvement typically becomes noticeable over several weeks to months.

Chemical peels. Superficial chemical peels can help accelerate pigment dispersal in the upper skin layers. In melasma, peel strength and preparation are critical. Overly aggressive peels can worsen inflammation and trigger rebound pigmentation. A series of carefully spaced treatments, combined with appropriate pre-treatment skincare, offers safer and more predictable results.

Microneedling. Microneedling may be used in selected clients, particularly where melasma coexists with textural concerns or acne scarring. Treatment must be performed cautiously, as excessive inflammation can worsen pigmentation if not managed correctly.

Melasma is a chronic condition that requires patience. Noticeable improvement may take 8–16 weeks, depending on depth and severity. Maintenance therapy is often required to prevent recurrence, particularly in individuals with ongoing hormonal triggers. Consistency and professional monitoring are key to achieving stable results.

In some cases, pregnancy-related melasma may fade after hormonal levels stabilise. However, many clients require treatment to achieve full resolution.

Certain lasers can be used cautiously, but aggressive laser treatments can worsen melasma, particularly in darker skin tones. Careful selection and medical supervision are essential.

Melasma is highly sensitive to sun exposure and hormonal fluctuations. Without maintenance skincare and strict SPF use, recurrence is common.

No. Treatment targets excess pigment only and aims to restore your natural, even skin tone.