Concerns · Skin of colour
Hyperpigmentation
Finding the cause, restoring your even tone
Understanding your skin
Hyperpigmentation in skin of colour
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most common and distressing skin concerns, particularly in melanin-rich skin. It presents as dark patches, uneven skin tone, or marks left behind after acne or inflammation.
While pigmentation is medically harmless, it can significantly affect confidence and quality of life. At Dr Mélanin, we specialise in hyperpigmentation treatment tailored specifically for skin of colour, using safe, structured protocols designed to improve tone without triggering further pigmentation.
The science
Where pigment comes from
In your skin, melanin is the pigment that gives skin its beautiful colour. It is produced in a cell that looks a little like an octopus, called a melanocyte.
The melanocyte packages the melanin into little parcels called melanosomes, which are then sent off into the surrounding cells. There, the parcels break open and release the melanin. And that's how you get pigment in your skin.
- Melanin
- The pigment that gives your skin its colour.
- Melanocyte
- The octopus-shaped cell where melanin is made.
- Melanosomes
- The little parcels that carry melanin into surrounding skin cells.
Why melanin-rich skin is different
When your skin senses a threat, it makes more melanin.
There are also some structural differences in darker skin tones. The cells that produce melanin are more reactive, and produce more melanin.
Because of this, when those cells sense a threat, they produce more melanin. They don't distinguish between different triggers. They simply go into overdrive to protect the skin, producing a lot of melanin all at once, and that's what you see as hyperpigmentation.
- Sun
- Bites
- Cuts
- Breakouts
- Product irritation
This is why harsh treatments can leave melanin-rich skin darker, and why we always build up gently.
A symptom, not a diagnosis
Why finding the cause comes first
Hyperpigmentation isn't a diagnosis, it's a symptom. It's like saying "my leg hurts". But why does your leg hurt? Is it broken, sprained, or just overworked?
Hyperpigmentation works the same way: it's your skin signalling something's wrong, so we need to find the cause before we can treat it properly.
To treat hyperpigmentation effectively, there are three things we need to know.
The pattern
Where is it?
Where pigment appears, and the shape it takes, often hints at what caused it.
The trigger
What caused it?
Treating the trigger, whether breakouts, sun or hormones, stops new pigment forming.
The depth
How deep is it?
How deep pigment sits decides which treatments we choose, and how quickly it responds.
Beneath the surface
Common types of hyperpigmentation
After inflammation
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
PIH develops after skin trauma such as acne, eczema, burns or cosmetic procedures. It is particularly common in darker skin tones, where even minor inflammation can leave long-lasting dark marks.
Often the mark lasts longer than the breakout itself.
Linked to hormones
Melasma
Symmetrical brown or grey-brown patches, often on the cheeks, forehead or upper lip. It is commonly linked to hormonal changes, pregnancy, oral contraceptives and sun exposure.
Chronic, so it needs careful long-term management.
After UV exposure
Sun-induced pigmentation
Sun damage stimulates melanin production, leading to dark spots and uneven tone. Ultraviolet exposure is one of the biggest triggers for worsening pigmentation in all skin types.
Daily SPF 50 is non-negotiable.
The third question
How deep is it?
Once we know where your pigmentation is and what caused it, the third thing we need to know to treat it effectively is how deep it sits.
Interestingly, UV light can show us roughly how deep pigment sits, and that determines how we decide to treat it.
During your consultation, we carry out a UV light assessment. This shows us where your pigment is lying in your skin, so we can plan the right treatments for you and set realistic expectations from the very start.
- Surface
- Sits in the upper layers of the skin. Usually easier to improve, and tends to respond more quickly.
- Deeper
- Sits lower down in the skin. Harder to improve, and needs a more gradual approach.
- Mixed
- Most pigmentation is a combination of both, so results depend on where most of your pigment sits.
Your treatment
Evening your tone, safely
Successful pigmentation treatment requires a structured, multi-step approach. There is rarely a single "quick fix", and in melanin-rich skin, aggressive lasers or strong peels without proper preparation can worsen the condition.
The foundation, always
Medical-grade skincare
Skincare forms the foundation of treatment. Consistency is crucial, and most clients see gradual improvement over 8–16 weeks.
To lift surface pigment
Chemical peels
Superficial chemical peels accelerate skin renewal and help lift excess pigment from the upper layers of the skin. In melanin-rich skin, peel strength and preparation are carefully controlled to reduce irritation risk. A series of treatments is usually required for optimal results.
When pigment meets texture
Microneedling
Microneedling can improve pigmentation indirectly by enhancing skin turnover and stimulating collagen production. It is particularly useful when pigmentation coexists with acne scarring or textural concerns, and when performed using appropriate technique, it is safe for darker skin tones.
Our protocols are designed specifically for darker skin tones, prioritising safety and gradual improvement.
Signature Programmes
Programmes for hyperpigmentation
One of our structured programmes brings your skincare and treatments together into a single, considered plan, matched to the cause of your pigmentation.
Your questions
Frequently asked questions
01Why is hyperpigmentation more common in skin of colour?
Melanin-rich skin contains larger, more active melanocytes. While this offers some natural protection against UV damage, it also means the skin responds more strongly to inflammation, so acne, minor irritation or overly harsh treatments can easily trigger pigmentation.
02How long does it take to see results?
Improvement is gradual. Depending on depth and type, noticeable changes may take several weeks to several months. Melasma often requires ongoing maintenance, while post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation may fade more predictably with treatment. Patience and consistency are key.
03Can hyperpigmentation be permanently cured?
Some forms, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, can resolve completely with appropriate treatment. Conditions like melasma are chronic and require long-term management rather than cure.
04Will treatment lighten my natural skin tone?
No. The aim is to restore your natural, even skin tone, not to lighten your complexion. Treatments target excess pigment only.
05Why does my pigmentation keep coming back?
Pigmentation can recur if triggers such as sun exposure, hormonal fluctuations or inflammation are not controlled. Maintenance skincare and daily SPF are vital.
Can't find your answer? Please reach out to us.
Disclaimer
Your results, side effects, treatment plans, downtime and recovery may vary, as all our clients are unique. The information provided on this page is based on the average client experience. If you would like more detail about how your experience may differ, please book an in-person consultation.
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