Concerns · Skin of colour

Enlarged Pores

Refining your skin's texture, safely

Understanding your skin

Enlarged pores in skin of colour

Enlarged pores are one of the most common skin concerns seen in aesthetic clinics, particularly in clients with oily, acne-prone and melanin-rich skin.

Although pores are a completely normal and essential part of healthy skin function, they can become more visible over time due to excess oil production, collagen loss, sun damage and previous acne. At Dr Mélanin, we provide treatments carefully tailored for skin of colour to minimise the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation while improving overall skin texture.

The science

What pores actually do

Pores are small openings in the skin that allow sebum (natural oil) and sweat to reach the surface. They are connected to sebaceous glands and hair follicles, and play an important role in maintaining skin hydration and barrier function.

Contrary to popular belief, pores do not physically open and close. However, they can appear larger when oil production increases, when dead skin accumulates within the follicle, or when the surrounding collagen weakens.

Sebaceous gland
The small gland beneath each pore that produces sebum, the skin's natural oil.
Collagen
The protein that gives skin its firmness and holds the walls of each pore in shape.
WELL SUPPORTED Healthy pore STRETCHED Enlarged pore
Firm collagen holds a healthy pore in shape. Persistent oil stretches the pore lining, and as collagen weakens with age, sun exposure or acne, the pore looks larger.

Why our approach is different

Pores can't be erased, but their appearance can be refined, safely.

There is no single treatment that suits every client. In melanin-rich skin, every peel, every needle depth and every active ingredient is chosen to improve texture without triggering unwanted pigmentation.

Your plan considers your
  • Oil production
  • Acne history
  • Pigmentation risk
  • Age
  • Skin health

Beneath the surface

What causes enlarged pores?

Enlarged pores develop for several reasons, and usually more than one is at play.

i.

What stretches the pore

  • Excess oil production, as persistent sebum output stretches the pore lining over time
  • Acne and inflammation, which weaken the structural support around the pore, particularly if breakouts have been frequent or severe
  • Genetics, which can determine your baseline pore size
ii.

What weakens support

  • Ageing, as collagen production gradually declines from the late twenties onwards, reducing skin firmness
  • Sun exposure, which accelerates this process by breaking down collagen and elastin fibres

Pores cannot be permanently removed, as they are an essential part of your skin. But treatments that build collagen and regulate oil can significantly reduce their appearance for the long term.

Your treatment

Refining your pores

A personalised consultation lets us create a structured plan that targets both the cause and the visible appearance of your pores.

i.

The foundation, always

A considered skincare routine

Good skincare forms the foundation of pore management. Consistent use over eight to twelve weeks typically produces noticeable refinement, alongside gentle cleansing and daily SPF 50.

  • RetinoidsStimulate collagen and increase cell turnover, gradually improving texture.
  • Salicylic acidReaches into the pore lining to reduce congestion and oil build-up.
  • NiacinamideHelps regulate oil and strengthen the skin barrier.
ii.

Visible refinement

In-clinic treatments

In-clinic treatments build on your skincare to smooth texture and strengthen the skin around each pore. In darker skin tones, careful selection and preparation are what keep results safe.

iii.

For selected clients

Micro-dose anti-wrinkle treatment

Where oil production is significant, a micro-dose anti-wrinkle treatment can reduce sebum output, so pores appear less stretched and more refined. This is carefully assessed on an individual basis and is not needed for everyone.

Most clients need three to six sessions of chemical peels or microneedling for optimal results.

Signature Programmes

A structured journey for your pores

Signature Programme IIAffinée

For oily, acne-prone skin. Our acne and scar refinement programme combines chemical peels, microneedling and polynucleotides to clear congestion, unclog pores and smooth texture, one stage at a time.

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Signature Programme VGenèse

For skin that needs strengthening. Our regenerative programme combines polynucleotides, Profhilo® and the Pink Korean Facial to repair and renew the skin, with microneedling added where texture would benefit.

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Your questions

Frequently asked questions

01What causes enlarged pores?

Enlarged pores develop for several reasons. Excess oil production is one of the main contributing factors, as persistent sebum output stretches the pore lining over time. Acne and inflammation can further weaken the structural support around the pore, particularly if breakouts have been frequent or severe.

Ageing also plays a significant role; collagen production gradually declines from the late twenties onwards, reducing skin firmness and making pores appear more prominent. Sun exposure accelerates this process by breaking down collagen and elastin fibres. Finally, genetics can determine baseline pore size, meaning some individuals are naturally predisposed to more visible pores regardless of skincare routine.

02What is the best treatment for enlarged pores?

There is no single treatment that suits every client. Management depends on oil production, acne history, pigmentation risk, age and overall skin health. A personalised consultation allows us to create a structured plan targeting both the cause and the visible appearance of enlarged pores.

Skincare. Topical retinoids stimulate collagen production and increase cell turnover, gradually improving texture over several months. Salicylic acid penetrates into the pore lining to reduce congestion and oil build-up, while niacinamide helps regulate sebum production and strengthen the skin barrier. Consistent use over eight to twelve weeks typically produces noticeable refinement.

Chemical peels. Peels improve pore appearance by accelerating cell turnover, reducing oil production and smoothing surface texture. In clients with darker skin tones, peel selection and preparation are crucial to prevent unwanted pigmentation. A gradual, structured approach ensures both safety and visible improvement.

Microneedling. Microneedling creates controlled micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen production around the pore walls. As collagen rebuilds, the surrounding tissue becomes firmer and more supportive, making pores appear smaller. It is particularly beneficial for clients who also have acne scarring or uneven texture. Most clients require between three and six sessions for optimal results.

Micro-dose anti-wrinkle treatment. In selected clients with significant oil production, a micro-dose anti-wrinkle treatment can be used to reduce sebum output, so pores appear less stretched and more refined. This approach is carefully assessed on an individual basis and is not required for all clients.

03Can you permanently shrink pores?

Pores cannot be permanently removed or eliminated, as they are an essential part of skin anatomy. However, treatments that stimulate collagen and regulate oil production can significantly reduce their appearance for the long term.

04Why do pores look larger with age?

As collagen and elastin levels decline with age, the skin loses structural support. This reduced firmness allows pores to appear more stretched and visible over time.

05Do pore strips reduce pore size?

Pore strips temporarily remove surface debris and oxidised oil, but they do not change the structure or size of the pore. Overuse can cause irritation and worsen inflammation.

06What skincare routine helps minimise pores?

A consistent routine including gentle cleansing, niacinamide, retinoids and daily SPF 50 is essential. Sun protection is particularly important, as UV exposure accelerates collagen breakdown and worsens pore visibility.

07How many treatments will I need?

The number of treatments varies depending on severity and goals. Most clients require three to six sessions of microneedling or chemical peels. A personalised consultation determines the most appropriate plan.

08Is microneedling safe for darker skin tones?

Yes, microneedling is safe for darker skin when performed with appropriate technique and settings. Proper assessment is essential to reduce the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Can't find your answer? Please reach out to us.

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Disclaimer

Your results, side effects, treatment plans, downtime and recovery may vary, as all our clients are unique. The information provided on this page is based on the average client experience. If you would like more detail about how your experience may differ, please book an in-person consultation.

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