Polynucleotides

Polynucleotide injections help the skin repair and renew itself through a process called bio-stimulation. They offer several important benefits. 

Polynucleotides boost the activity of cells that make collagen and elastin, which keeps the skin firm, smooth, and elastic. They also hold onto water, giving the skin-deep hydration and a plumper, fresher look as well as speeding up healing, which is useful for scars, stretch marks, or damage after surgery. Polynucleotides also calm irritation and protect the skin from free radicals, helping with redness and sensitivity and they support skin repair, protecting the skin from ageing and environmental stress.

Because of these effects, polynucleotides are being used not only for skin rejuvenation but also for wound healing, hair restoration, joint care, and eye health. Their ability to hydrate, repair, and protect makes them a powerful tool in regenerative medicine.

For these reasons, polynucleotides are being applied in several medical fields, including dermatology, hair restoration, orthopaedics, and ophthalmology. Their combined effects, hydration, repair, protection, and regeneration, make them an increasingly valuable option for both aesthetic and therapeutic use.

Some of the benefits of polunucleotides include improved hydration, elasticity, skin texture, tone, a ‘glow’ and restored youthfulness to the skin, reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, scarring and dullness. We can also see improvement of acne, rosacea and other inflammatory skin conditions as well as some improvement in pigmentation. Polynucleotides are also used as a treatment option for under eye circles or darkness with good results. 

At Dr Mélanin, we currently use 2 formulations (Plinest® and Newest®) which are sterile injectables made from ultra-purified polynucleotides (PN) derived from salmon DNA. There are some key differences between the two formulations used in our clinic:

• Plinest® (Standard) – Contains only highly purified polynucleotides (PN), suitable for sensitive areas including under the eyes.
• Newest® (with hyaluronic acid) – Contains polynucleotides + hyaluronic acid (HA). This enhances hydration and tissue structure but is unsuitable for the under-eye area due to increased risk of swelling or vascular occlusion.

Your clinician will select the most appropriate type based on your skin concerns and treatment area.

During a polynucleotide treatment, your skin is first thoroughly cleansed, and a topical numbing cream is applied for 20–30 minutes to reduce discomfort. The clinician then uses a SkinPen® or microneedling device to glide the polynucleotide gel over the skin forming tiny controlled microchannels which allow the polynucleotide gel to penetrate through. You may feel mild pressure, stinging, pricking, vibration, or scratching, but the procedure is generally well tolerated. Treatments usually take 30–60 minutes, depending on the number of areas being treated. In some cases, we can also use needles or a cannula to administer the polynucleotides. 

After the procedure, it is normal to experience redness, tightness, mild peeling, and sensitivity, which usually settles within 24–72 hours. Mild peeling is particularly common in skin of colour. 

The skin may go through a healing phase after treatment. This typically includes: 

Day 1–2: Redness, tightness, and warmth (like a sunburn), mild swelling and sensitivity Day 2–4: Skin may feel dry, rough, or slightly flaky. You might experience light bronzing or pinkness may appear. Rarely, some clients may also experience mild breakouts or a “purge” phase. 

Day 5–7: Skin feels smoother and looks more radiant. Collagen and elastin production continues for weeks after treatment.

Polynucleotides with or without microneedling is very safe for skin of colour when done correctly, by the right practitioner, at the right time and with the right skin preparation.

Skin changes on skin of colour appear differently when microneedling is performed. Specialist training is required to identify these differences in skin of colour so they can be identified. Our clinic specialises in monitoring these changes, tailoring the treatment to the skin tone and type as well as managing complications that are more likely to occur in skin of colour.

Polynucleotide treatments with microneedling are generally well-tolerated, though some clients may feel mild discomfort or a slight stinging sensation during the procedure. The level of sensation depends on the area being treated and your individual pain tolerance. To make the treatment more comfortable, a topical numbing cream (such as EMLA®) is usually applied beforehand. It is also normal to see pinpoint bleeding and redness during and immediately after the procedure, which usually settles within a few hours. Most people describe the sensation to be like light scratching or tingling. 

When administered with a needle or cannula, polynucleotide treatments can be a little more uncomfortable but still reasonably well tolerated. We use numbing cream for all our polynucleotide procedures. 

Whilst polynucleotides are widely used, well-tolerated and extremely safe, like all treatments, they do carry some risks which can occur. Common and expected side effects (usually temporary and typically resolve within 72 hours)  include redness, swelling or tenderness at injection site, bruising or pinprick bleedinglight, lumpiness under the skin that resolves within days when needles are used to administer the polynucleotides, itching or tightness, increased sensitivity in treated areas and temporary blurred vision with eye treatment (mild and subsides within a few hours). These will be discussed with you in detail during your consultation as these vary between treatments.

Improvements such as smoother texture and better hydration often appear within 1–2 weeks, with more noticeable changes like firmer, brighter skin developing after 4–6 weeks as collagen production increases. Results generally last for several months, though this varies by individual and treatment area. For best results, we recommend a course of 2–3 sessions, spaced 2–4 weeks apart.

Our polynucleotide treatments prices start at £150 – £250 depending on the area treated and whether microneedling is used to administer the treatment. Please contact us to receive our full pricing list. We carefully prepare bespoke plans for all our clients and not all treatments may be suitable for you. We recommend booking a consultation with our clinicians to ensure polynucleotides are the right fit for your skin goals.