Concerns · Skin of colour
Ingrown Hairs
Calmer, clearer skin after hair removal
Razor bumps · Shaving bumps · Pseudofolliculitis barbae
Understanding your skin
Ingrown hairs in skin of colour
Ingrown hairs, known medically as pseudofolliculitis barbae and often called razor bumps, develop when hairs become trapped beneath the skin and the surrounding follicles become inflamed. They are most common in men of African and African-Caribbean descent, affecting an estimated 45–80% of those who shave, because tightly curled hair is more likely to grow back into the skin.
Women are affected too, particularly on the underarms, bikini line and legs. At Dr Mélanin, we offer dermatologist-led care for ingrown hairs, with specialist expertise in protecting melanin-rich skin from the dark marks and scarring they can leave behind.
The science
How an ingrown hair develops
Why our approach is different
In melanin-rich skin, the bumps settle, but the marks and scars can stay.
Darker skin tones respond to inflammation by producing extra pigment, so ingrown hairs often leave dark marks that outlast the bumps themselves. Skin of colour is also more prone to raised, thickened (keloid) scarring. That is why treatments such as chemical peels and laser hair removal must be carefully selected and performed by clinicians experienced in skin of colour.
- Hair type
- Hair removal routine
- Pigmentation risk
- Scarring tendency
- Work & cultural needs
Beneath the surface
What causes ingrown hairs?
Ingrown hairs usually result from a combination of how hair is removed and the natural shape of the hair itself.
How hair is removed
- Very close shaving, particularly with blade razors, which leaves a sharp tip below the surface
- Multi-blade razors, which lift the hair and cut it beneath the skin
- Shaving technique, such as shaving against the grain or stretching the skin tight
- Waxing and plucking, which can also cause hairs to regrow into the skin
Your hair and skin
- Coarse or tightly curled hair, which naturally curves back towards the skin
- Skin folds or scarring, where even straight hairs can become trapped
- Frequent hair removal, which gives the skin little time to recover between shaves
The only certain cure is to pause hair removal, and the bumps usually settle within 4–6 weeks. We understand this is not always possible for work, cultural or personal reasons, which is why treatment focuses on what is.
Your treatment
Treating ingrown hairs
Treatment focuses on changing how hair is removed, calming inflammation, and treating any dark marks or scarring. Your plan is tailored to your skin following a personalised consultation.
The foundation, always
Gentler hair removal & skincare
Small changes to how and how often you remove hair can make a significant difference, supported by a simple, barrier-friendly routine.
- Glycolic & salicylic acidGently exfoliate the surface to help free trapped hairs and reduce new bumps.
- Fragrance-free moisturiserSoothes and protects the skin after every shave.
- Daily tinted SPFA minimum of SPF 40, with visible light protection, to stop dark marks worsening.
Calming inflammation
Medical treatment
Where bumps are inflamed, infected or persistent, your clinician may recommend prescription treatment alongside your skincare.
- Steroid creamsUsed for short periods to reduce inflammation and itching.
- Antiseptic & antibiotic lotionsSuch as clindamycin or benzoyl peroxide, to prevent or treat infection.
- Retinoid creamsSuch as tretinoin, sometimes with an antibiotic, to help prevent blocked follicles.
- Oral antibioticsShort courses for infected or more severe inflammation.
Longer-term results
In-clinic treatments
In-clinic treatments help release trapped hairs, reduce new bumps and fade the marks left behind. In melanin-rich skin, the type and strength of every treatment is carefully chosen to avoid irritation and pigmentation.
Chemical peels
Peels containing glycolic or salicylic acid gently exfoliate the skin, helping to free trapped hairs, reduce new bumps, calm inflammation and improve dark marks. A course is usually needed for the best results.
DiscoverLaser hair removal
Reduces hair growth over time, so there are fewer hairs to become trapped. In skin of colour, only a laser suitable for darker skin, such as Nd:YAG, used by an experienced practitioner, should be considered.
Coming soonWith the right routine and treatment, most clients see fewer new bumps within weeks, with dark marks continuing to fade over the following months.
Signature Programme
A structured journey to calmer, clearer skin
For persistent bumps, dark marks and scarring. Affinée follows a staged approach: a course of chemical peels first calms active bumps and fades dark marks, then microneedling, often combined with polynucleotides, smooths any scarring left behind, one stage at a time.
DiscoverBetween appointments
Caring for your skin at home
If possible, pausing hair removal is the most effective way to clear ingrown hairs. Skin may look worse before it improves as the hairs grow out. If you prefer a short beard, keep it trimmed with electric clippers rather than shaving. If you need to remove hair, these steps can help.
Before
Preparing your skin
- Remove hair less often, such as every other day or twice a week, so your skin can recover.
- Wash with lukewarm water and a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser.
- Soften the hairs by holding a warm, damp cloth against the skin for a few minutes.
- Apply a fragrance-free shaving gel and leave it on for a few minutes before you begin.
During
Shaving with care
- Shave in the direction of hair growth, using short strokes.
- Avoid stretching the skin or going over the same area more than once.
- Leave a little stubble, around 1mm, rather than a very close shave.
- Use a sharp, single-blade razor and replace it regularly, or electric clippers that leave a little stubble.
After
Soothing your skin
- Rinse with cool water, pat dry and apply a fragrance-free moisturiser.
- Avoid aftershaves and colognes, as alcohol and fragrance can sting, irritate and pigment the skin.
- Clean your razor and clippers after every use, use a clean, soft towel, and never share them.
Every day
Protecting your skin
- Introduce one active product at a time, such as glycolic or salicylic acid, and stop if your skin becomes red or irritated.
- Wear a minimum of SPF 40 outdoors, ideally tinted with iron oxides for visible light protection.
- Patch test hair removal creams first, and never use them on broken or inflamed skin.
Please avoid
What can make it worse
Plucking, picking, squeezing or digging out trapped hairs, which increases inflammation and the risk of infection, dark marks and scarring. Please also avoid harsh soaps, physical scrubs, exfoliating gloves and cleansing brushes, and DIY remedies such as lemon, turmeric, toothpaste or bleaching creams, which can burn and pigment the skin.
When to seek advice
Don't wait
Please seek advice promptly if the bumps become very painful, hot, swollen or filled with pus, or if you notice raised scars (keloids) developing. Early treatment can help prevent infection and long-term scarring.
Your questions
Frequently asked questions
01Are ingrown hairs the same as razor bumps?
Yes. Razor bumps, shaving bumps and ingrown hairs in the beard area are all names for pseudofolliculitis barbae, where hairs become trapped beneath the skin and the follicles become inflamed. It most often affects the neck and under the jawline, but it can occur anywhere hair is shaved, waxed or plucked.
02Can women get ingrown hairs?
Yes. Ingrown hairs can affect anyone who removes coarse or curly hair. In women, they are particularly common on the underarms, bikini line, groin and legs. The same principles of gentler hair removal, skincare and in-clinic treatment apply.
03Is it an infection?
Not primarily. Ingrown hairs cause inflammation because the body treats the trapped hair as a foreign object. However, the injured follicles can become infected (folliculitis), and the two conditions can occur together. Your clinician can advise whether treatment for infection is needed.
04How are ingrown hairs diagnosed?
A healthcare professional can usually diagnose ingrown hairs by examining the skin, looking at the pattern of bumps in hair-bearing areas and asking about your hair removal habits. Trapped hairs can sometimes be seen on examination, and a magnifying tool called a dermatoscope may be used. Tests are rarely needed.
05Will they go away on their own?
If you stop shaving, waxing or plucking the area, the bumps usually settle within 4–6 weeks as the hairs grow out. If you continue to remove hair, bumps are likely to keep returning, which is why changing your technique and seeking treatment can help. Dark marks may take longer to fade and benefit from targeted treatment.
06Can chemical peels help with ingrown hairs?
Yes. Peels containing ingredients such as glycolic or salicylic acid gently exfoliate the skin, which can help free trapped hairs, reduce the number of new bumps, calm inflammation and improve dark marks. A course of peels is usually needed for the best results.
In skin of colour, it is important that the type and strength of peel is chosen and performed by an experienced clinician, as an unsuitable peel can irritate the skin and worsen pigmentation.
07Is laser hair removal safe for darker skin?
Laser hair removal can offer a longer-term reduction in hair growth, but in skin of colour it should only be carried out by an experienced practitioner using a laser suitable for darker skin, such as Nd:YAG. An unsuitable laser can cause lightening or darkening of the skin.
Laser hair removal is coming soon to Dr Mélanin. In the meantime, we can help you manage your ingrown hairs with skincare, medical treatment and chemical peels.
08Will the dark marks fade?
Dark marks, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, are not scars and can fade over time, particularly once new bumps are under control. Daily SPF is essential, as sun exposure can make the marks darker. Chemical peels and the right skincare can help them fade more quickly.
09My ingrown hairs are affecting my confidence. Can you help?
Visible bumps, dark marks or scarring on the face and body can affect how you feel about your appearance, and you are not alone in feeling this way. Please talk to us or another healthcare professional if you are struggling, as support and treatment options are available.
Can't find your answer? Please reach out to us.
Disclaimer
Your results, side effects, treatment plans, downtime and recovery may vary, as all our clients are unique. The information provided on this page is based on the average client experience. If you would like more detail about how your experience may differ, please book an in-person consultation.
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